Smoked Spareribs WITH Ranch-Barbecue Sauce

Let's Cook

1. Step 1.

   In a small bowl, whisk together the chili powder, ancho chili powder, sweet paprika, ground cumin, light brown sugar, kosher salt, and black pepper until well combined. Set the rub aside.

2. Step 2.

   Place the pork sparerib racks on a large rimmed baking sheet, bone side up. If the silver skin membrane is still attached, use a dinner knife to pry it up at one corner, then grab it with a paper towel and gently pull it off. Trim any excess fat from the ribs.

3. Step 3.

   Coat the rib racks all over with the spice rub, especially the meatier side. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to overnight.

4. Step 4.

   Remove the ribs from the refrigerator while you prepare a water smoker or grill for indirect cooking over very low heat (225 to 250°F). Cover the grill and let it come to temperature. If using wood chips, drain them after soaking. Add the wood chips or chunks to the grill. Replace the cooking grate and brush it clean.

5. Step 5.

   Place the ribs, meaty side up, on the cooking grate over indirect heat. Smoke with the lid closed until the ribs are very tender, about 5 hours. Change the position of each rib rack about once an hour, turning and rotating them so they cook evenly. Keep a close eye on the temperature; if it begins to drop, add a few more pieces of charcoal (you can light half a chimney on a heatproof surface first).

6. Step 6.

   While the ribs smoke, make the sauce. In a medium saucepan over medium heat, warm the canola oil. Add the finely chopped red onion and a pinch of salt, and cook, stirring, until the onion softens and starts to brown, about 7 minutes.

7. Step 7.

   Stir in the ketchup, porter ale, apple cider vinegar, Worcestershire sauce, light brown sugar, dark molasses, 1 teaspoon salt, black pepper, and red pepper flakes. Bring to a simmer, then reduce the heat to low and cook, stirring occasionally, until the flavors meld, about 15 minutes.

8. Step 8.

   Use an immersion blender or transfer the sauce to a blender and blend until pureed (or leave as is if you prefer a chunkier sauce). Season with more salt, vinegar, or red pepper flakes if desired. You should have about 4 cups of sauce. (The sauce can be made up to 1 week in advance; cool completely and store in an airtight container in the refrigerator.)

9. Step 9.

   The ribs are done when the meat is very tender, has pulled back from the bones, and tears away easily when a rack is lifted with tongs. Brush the racks on both sides with a thick, even layer of sauce. Cover the grill and continue to cook until crisp and sticky, about 10 minutes.

10. Step 10.

    Brush the ribs with more sauce, then transfer to a cutting board. Let rest for about 5 minutes before cutting each rack into individual ribs. Serve right away with the remaining sauce on the side.