Croquembouche

Ingredients

• Hide ingredients for Choux Paste, using the optional sugar 1 Choux Paste, using the optional sugar (opens in new tab) Choux Paste, using the optional sugar
  • 1 cup (125g) all-purpose flour
  • 1 cup (135g) milk or water, or ½ cup each milk and water
  • 1 stick (4 oz or 115g) unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
  • (1 tablespoon [10g] sugar)
  • ½ teaspoon salt
  • 4 large eggs, at room temperature

  Sub-recipe steps

  1. Measure and have ready: 1 cup (125g) all-purpose flour
  2. Combine in a large saucepan: 1 cup (135g) milk or water, or ½ cup each milk and water; 1 stick (4 oz or 115g) unsalted butter, cut into small pieces; (1 tablespoon [10g] sugar); ½ teaspoon salt
  3. Bring the mixture to a full boil over medium heat. Add the flour all at once and stir vigorously with a wooden spoon. The mixture will look rough at first but it will suddenly become smooth, at which point you should stir faster. The butter may ooze out, which is fine. In a few minutes, the paste will become dry and not cling to the spoon or the sides of the pan, and when the spoon is pressed on it lightly, it will leave a smooth imprint. Do not overcook or overstir at this point, or the dough will fail to puff. Transfer the dough to a large bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer and let cool for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally with a spoon or with the paddle attachment.
  4. Add one at a time, beating vigorously after each addition with a wooden spoon, or on low speed with a mixer: 4 large eggs, at room temperature
  5. Make sure that the paste is smooth each time before adding the next egg. Continue to beat until the dough is smooth and shiny. The proper consistency has been reached when a small quantity of the dough will stand erect if scooped up on the end of a spoon. The paste can be covered and refrigerated for up to 4 hours; you do not need to bring the paste to room temperature before shaping.
• Hide ingredients for Double recipe any flavor pastry cream 1 Double recipe any flavor pastry cream (opens in new tab) Double recipe any flavor pastry cream
  • ½ cup sugar
  • 2 tablespoons cornstarch
  • 3 large egg yolks
  • 1 large egg
  • ¼ teaspoon salt
  • 1 ½ cups whole milk
  • (1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise)
  • 2 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
  • (1 teaspoon vanilla)

  Sub-recipe steps

  1. Whisk together in a medium heatproof bowl until smooth: ½ cup sugar; 2 tablespoons cornstarch; 3 large egg yolks; 1 large egg; ¼ teaspoon salt
  2. Bring to a simmer in a medium saucepan: 1 ½ cups whole milk; (1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise)
  3. If using, remove the vanilla bean and set aside. Slowly pour half the hot milk over the egg mixture while whisking it constantly. Whisk the tempered egg mixture into the saucepan with the remaining milk and cook, stirring constantly, over medium-low heat until the cream thickens, about 2 minutes. Immediately scrape the custard into a clean bowl and stir in: 2 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
  4. If you used a vanilla bean, scrape the seeds from the pod and stir into the pastry cream. If you did not use vanilla bean, stir in, if desired: (1 teaspoon vanilla)
  5. Place a piece of plastic wrap directly on the surface of the pastry cream to prevent a skin from forming. Let cool, then refrigerate before using. This keeps, refrigerated, for up to 2 days. When ready to use, transfer the pastry cream to a bowl, or a stand mixer with the paddle attachment, and beat on low speed until smooth and creamy.
• Hide ingredients for Caramelized Sugar 1 Caramelized Sugar (opens in new tab) Caramelized Sugar
  • ¾ cup sugar
  • ¼ cup water

  Sub-recipe steps

  1. Place in a small heavy saucepan: ¾ cup sugar
  2. Drizzle evenly over the top: ¼ cup water
  3. Place the pan over medium heat and, without stirring, very gently swirl the pan until a clear syrup forms. It is important that the sugar dissolve and the syrup clarify before it boils, so slide the pan on and off the burner as necessary. Once the sugar is dissolved, increase the heat to high and bring the syrup to a rolling boil. Cover the pan tightly and boil for 2 minutes. Uncover the pan and cook the syrup until it begins to darken. Gently swirl the pan once again, then cook the syrup until it turns a deep amber, or registers about 360°F on a thermometer.
  4. Store the syrup tightly covered at room temperature. The syrup hardens on standing, but if stored in a heatproof jar, it is easily melted by heating the jar gently in hot water.
  5. This category of sugars is a diverse one. Unrefined sugars have a wide range of textures, colors, and flavors. Due to the fact that they are less processed than white or brown sugar, they are more variable. When used in cooking, the cook should consider their unique characters, as they will add their own flavors to any dish they are used in. These sugars are not commonly used in baking, though they may be in some instances. Be aware, however, that unrefined sugars will not behave like refined ones.
  6. Muscovado sugar has a very high molasses content. It is the sugar produced during the final crystallization of sugar from the reduced and concentrated sugarcane syrup (after this final crystallization, the syrup is filtered of waste products and becomes molasses). Muscovado sugar is very dark and flavorful. Use it as you would brown sugar, knowing that it will add its own characteristic flavor.
  7. Turbinado or raw sugar is processed from sugarcane. It is partially refined in a turbine, thus the name, and the crystals have had their molasses coating partially washed off. With coarse, beige crystals, turbinado sugar is closest in character to the yellow or brownish demerara sugar often called for in British recipes. Demerara sugar comes from the first crystallization of cane juice and has a pale golden color and mild, caramel flavor. Substitute turbinado or demerara sugar cup for cup for granulated sugar, but be aware of their heavier molasses flavor and larger crystal size, which can make them harder to dissolve. These sugars are excellent sprinkled on top of baked goods for crunch and sweetness. We also like to dust the insides of buttered baking pans with these coarse sugars as they melt during baking, providing a darker, caramelized crust.
  8. Piloncillo is an unrefined sugar from Mexico, though this type of unrefined sugar is used all over Central and South America under different names, among them chancaca, rapadura, and panela. It is often sold in dense, light to dark brown cakes or cones, although it may also be found granulated. To use it in cooking, grate it on the large holes of a box grater or chop it into fine pieces with a knife.
  9. Sucanat is dried pure sugar cane juice. The name (a registered trademark) is an abbreviation of sucre de canne naturel or “natural cane sugar.” Sucanat is much lighter by weight than the same volume of granulated sugar, and it has a mild molasses flavor. To substitute Sucanat for 1 cup granulated sugar, use 1 ¼ cups Sucanat and grind it in a spice or coffee grinder before adding to baked goods.
  10. Palm sugar is a coarse brown sugar made from the evaporated sap of different types of palm trees. It is usually sold in pucks or cones much like piloncillo and can be grated or chopped into small pieces for use in cooking. Jaggery is very similar to palm sugar, but it is often made from a combination of palm sap and sugarcane juice. It is commonly used in Indian cooking.
  11. Coconut sugar is a granulated sugar made from the sap of the bud stems of coconut palms. It may be found in puck form, much like jaggery and piloncillo, or granulated. This type of sugar is used across Southeast Asia. Coconut sugar is sometimes called palm sugar, though palm sugar is made from the sap of a variety of palm trees, while coconut sugar is made specifically from coconut palm sap. Coconut sugar, palm sugar, and jaggery are all interchangeable in recipes, though they should not be substituted in recipes calling for granulated sugar.
  12. Maple sugar is made by boiling maple syrup until most of the liquid has evaporated. It has a distinctive, strong, sweet taste. Because of its high cost, it is often reserved for flavoring. It is sold in both block and granulated form. For maple sugar in a block, grate or shave it before combining it with other ingredients. For using in baked goods, substitute maple sugar for one-third of the total sugar called for in the recipe.
  13. All brown sugar is made in one of two ways: Raw sugar is dissolved in a syrup, then recrystallized; or refined white sugar is mixed with molasses so the syrup coats the sugar crystals. As a result, brown sugar is a moister cane or beet sugar with a light or dark brown color and more complex flavor than white sugar. As brown sugar hardens and lumps easily, keep it in a tightly covered container or in a tightly closed plastic bag. If the sugar should become hard, place it in a dish, cover with plastic wrap, and microwave on high in 30-second intervals, using a fork to break up the sugar. Or place in a resealable zip-top bag, add half an apple or a slice of bread to the bag, seal, and let stand. Remove the apple when the sugar softens. In this book, if neither light nor dark brown sugar is specified, either type can be used. Use dark brown sugar when a stronger flavor or darker color is wanted.
  14. To measure brown sugar, pack it firmly into the measuring cup and level it by pressing with the palm of your hand. To substitute brown sugar for granulated sugar, use 1 cup firmly packed brown sugar for each 1 cup granulated sugar.
  15. Pourable granulated brown sugar is also widely available. Depending on the brand, it may not be as sweet, so be sure you know what you are buying and follow the directions on the package when using in recipes.
  16. In this book, when the word “sugar” appears with no qualifiers, it means granulated white sugar—beet sugar or cane sugar, both being 99.5 percent pure sucrose. Granulated sugar can be used for almost every purpose, even for meringue. One pound of granulated sugar equals approximately 2 cups.
  17. Coarse or decorating sugar is large-crystal granulated sugar and may be clear, white, or tinted colors.
  18. Also called bar or berry sugar, superfine sugar is a finer grind of granulated sugar. It is between granulated sugar and powdered sugar in consistency. Because it dissolves readily, it is used in meringues, for macerating fruits, and in cocktails and other drinks. The crystals are too small for creaming with butter in making cakes, cookies, or in any baking where the sugar crystals must “cut” into the butter. If it becomes lumpy, put the sugar in a plastic bag and use a rolling pin to crush the lumps. Make superfine sugar at home with a food processor, pulsing granulated sugar until fine and powder like. Superfine sugar can be substituted cup for cup for granulated sugar where appropriate.
  19. To color granulated sugar, sprinkle 1 cup sugar with 10 to 12 drops food coloring and mix well until the sugar is evenly tinted. Pour the sugar onto a rimmed baking sheet and allow it to dry for about 3 hours.