Rigatoni A La Bolognese

Let's Cook

1. Step 1.

   Heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a large Dutch oven or other heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add the ground veal, season with salt and pepper, and cook, breaking it up with a wooden spoon, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the veal to a mixing bowl. Return the pot to the heat, add a splash of white wine, and scrape up any browned bits with the wooden spoon, then pour the contents into the bowl with the veal.

2. Step 2.

   Repeat with another tablespoon of oil, the ground pork, more salt and pepper, and another splash of wine, browning the pork and deglazing as before. Transfer the pork and deglazing liquid to the same bowl as the veal.

3. Step 3.

   Preheat the oven to 300°F.

4. Step 4.

   Return the pot to medium heat and add the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil and the butter. Add the chopped onion and cook until wilted, about 5 minutes. Add the carrots, celery, and salt and pepper to taste, and cook until softened, about 5 more minutes. Stir in the tomato paste and cook for 1 minute. Add another splash of white wine to loosen the mixture and cook for 1 minute.

5. Step 5.

   Add the can of whole San Marzano tomatoes and 2 cups of the chicken broth, then increase the heat to high. Tie the bay leaves, thyme sprigs, and oregano sprigs together with kitchen twine and add to the pot. When the mixture comes to a boil, pour the reserved meat and juices back into the pot, then turn off the burner.

6. Step 6.

   Transfer the uncovered pot to the oven and cook for 2 hours, stirring occasionally and breaking up the tomatoes with a wooden spoon. If the liquid level drops below the solids, add more chicken broth to keep them submerged.

7. Step 7.

   While the sauce simmers, bring a large pot of heavily salted water (it should taste like the ocean) to a boil. Add the rigatoni and cook until al dente according to package directions, but slightly firmer than ideal since it will cook more in the sauce. Reserve 1 cup of pasta cooking water before draining.

8. Step 8.

   While the pasta cooks, remove the sauce pot from the oven. If the sauce seems too thin, boil it over high heat for a couple of minutes, stirring constantly. Then reduce the heat to medium, add the milk, and simmer, stirring every couple of minutes, making sure the mixture does not boil (or the milk may separate). Fish out and discard the herb bundle. Remove about one-third of the sauce to a bowl and reserve for later use if desired.

9. Step 9.

   Drain the cooked rigatoni and add it to the sauce pot. Cook over medium heat for 2 minutes, stirring constantly. If the mixture becomes too thick or dry, add the reserved pasta cooking water 1 tablespoon at a time. Add more reserved sauce if desired.

10. Step 10.

    Remove the pot from the heat and stir in half of the grated Parmigiano-Reggiano. Gently mix in a few dollops of ricotta, if using. Serve the remaining Parmigiano-Reggiano and ricotta on the side. Taste for seasoning and serve directly from the pot.